We are here to argue the case for carp. By now you’ve probably heard of a few
folks tossing flies for carp, probably heard all kinds of great things about
them, the carp that is. But you haven’t gone yet. Why, we ask. Mindset? Maybe
you remember your dad or granddad telling you those fish were no good. Or maybe
your fishing buddy is one of those guys who just won’t even entertain the idea
of fly fishing for carp. Perhaps you heard that these fish are real tough to
catch; nobody likes to get skunked. So you might have some interest in this, but
you’re really not sure. This is our chance to convince you to get fresh blood in
your fishing, some new opportunities to do something different. Please join us
as we point out the carp’s high points, and some tactics for catching them.
The Convenient Carp
Most of us don’t live right on the banks of a world-famous trout stream. Most of
us don’t live on the banks any trout stream. A guess at the average fly
fisherman’s drive time to reach a trout would be measured in hours. There are
certainly much worse things to be doing than driving to a trout stream. However,
if you live in the city, hold down a job, have a family, etc., things other than
fishing often take precedence. Here lies the true beauty of the carp. These fish
are more than likely 10 minutes, 5 minutes, from your front door; they might
even be within walking distance. They are excellent for quick trips to get your
fishing fix. Have a lunch hour? Go fishing. Have only 2 or 3 hours on Saturday
morning? Go fishing. Taking the family to the park for a picnic? Go fishing.
Feel OK about stealing 30 minutes from your errands? Go fishing. A theme is
emerging. You could be out doing this and that “important” stuff, and in the
middle of it all catch a 5 pound fish, and then slip back into civilization.
Chances are no one will even know.
Where the Carp Are
Carp can live practically everywhere. A listing of exceptions will be much more
efficient. Fast moving, cold water streams and rivers, and altitudes over 6,000
feet, will not hold carp. Everything else does, with few exceptions. In other
words, they live where most people live. Everywhere!
Carp as a Game Fish
When was the last time you saw your backing? No, really, when was it? While you
think about that for a moment, think about that pond down the street from you,
or the lake across town, or that slow-moving river, holding a multitude of 5 to
15 pound fish that would show you how good your line to backing knot really is.
How do you like sight fishing? For many it’s perhaps the most exciting part of
the sport. Almost everything in carp fishing is visual; you spot the fish, you
cast to the fish, and you see the strike.
Chances are the carp is the biggest fish in the lake and they are available
almost every day from late March to early November in shallow water. It would be
hard to ask for much more from a game fish.
Carp as a Teacher
The progress of a fly fisherman is an interesting journey. Carp can be a
wonderful way to add to your skills. Most of the time carp will be a challenging
quarry, and this is part of the game. The reason carp are hard to hook is
because our skills are not initially up to their skills. Carp will seldom be
taken with improper presentation. The more you work on presentation, the more
fish you will catch. If you think that your carp-honed skills will carry over
into other types of fishing, you would be correct. Spooky trout and carp have
much in common.
Another element is sight fishing. Carp must be seen to be caught. In many cases
they can be difficult to see, just shadows moving along the bottom or in and out
of deep water. As you get more practice, your fish-sighting skills become much
more keen. Next time you go to the trout stream you can bet you will be spotting
more fish, and a fish seen will become a fish caught.
Working on your saltwater skills? A carp’s behavior is much like that of
bonefish and redfish. Now, if I were going to spend several thousand dollars on
a trip to the tropics, I might get in as much practice as I could. Carp are
perfect for this. They have many of the same characteristics as the most
sought-after tropical species and in fact are caught on many of the same
patterns. Catch some carp, and be prepared when you go to the flats!
Carp Anatomy and Habits
There are two major species of carp in our waters, common
and grass carp, and one minor, the mirror. Here we’ll focus on the common and
mirror carp, which are taken in the same waters and with the same techniques.
Grass carp are a sport unto themselves; if driven by overwhelming popular
demand, we might even write an article about them.
In order to start catching carp on the fly you must first
understand some basic anatomy and general habits of these fish. To start, carp
generally are shallow water bottom feeders and have an underslung mouth and
barbels, or whiskers. The carp’s underslung mouth allows the fish to root and
sort when feeding. This behavior will often create “muds”, or discolored water,
a dead giveaway of recent or current feeding. As for food, there isn’t much a
carp won’t eat – animal, vegetable or probably mineral. Carp will often be found
with “heads down and tails up” when they are on a major feed. This is an
excellent time to toss a fly at them.
Carp have five specific habits or behaviors that are
important to recognize for angling success. First, there is the cruising carp.
Cruising carp come in two classes, “fast cruisers”, who are generally moving
pretty fast (hence the name) and are not really interested in feeding. They are
definitely going somewhere, often are in small squadrons of 2 to 6 fish, and
they mean to get there in a hurry. Then there is the slow cruiser, who may or
may not be interested in food; it may seem to be browsing or window shopping.
Slow cruisers are often solitary fish, or maybe in a pair. A well placed fly
will often entice them into striking.
Second, there is the sunning carp. These fish can be seen
suspended under a couple inches of water and typically don’t move around too
much. The sunning fish are generally not interested in taking a fly.
Third, there is the “clooping” carp. First off, the
definition of clooping; this is a term from the Brits, a land where carp are
considered top-shelf for the working class angler. Clooping carp are those
taking food off the surface of the water. Carp don’t have a classic rising fish
form when they take food top water, they tend to suck it, and it makes a soft
sound that sounds like a “cloop!” The clooper can be seen sucking in all sorts
of aquatic insects and plants. Some flies to fool a clooping carp: dry flies to
match the hatch, emergers, midges, nymphs, slow sinking aquatic insect patterns,
and plant imitations such as cottonwood seeds. Cloopers can be a lot fun.
The fourth type of carp are we would call “hellraisers”,
so named in the bible of carp fishing, “Carp on the Fly”, by Reynolds,
Befus, and Berryman. The term applies to fish who are randomly jumping and/or
thrashing all about and generally raising hell. Do not even think about trying
to catch one of these fish; it is a complete waste of time. Ignore the flying,
fifteen-pound carp as best you can.
The Tailing Fish
Finally, there is the tailing fish. The tailer offers the
fly angler the best chance of getting a fish to take a fly. The tailer will be
nose down rooting around in the mud in search of food. The best flies for the
tailer include wooly buggers, aquatic nymphs, and Clouser-style flies.
The key to success when fly fishing for tailing carp is
attracting the attention of the fish without spooking it. The position of
the fly, rate of sink, and the action of the fly all play a part. To start, the
fly must come within a few inches of the line of sight of the fish. If the fly
is off by more than that, your chances of catching the fish greatly decreases.
So you’re probably thinking that your casting accuracy is going to have to be
precise; true, but not quite in the way you may think. If you land the fly
directly in the carp’s feeding zone you are most likely going to spook the fish
immediately. Therefore you must cast beyond the fish and strip the fly into the
zone. This will take some practice to get the timing and accuracy down, but
before you know it you will be spot on! Next is the rate of sink of the fly. We
have found that most fish will take the fly more readily if the fly is still
suspended in the water. The key here is to match the rate of sink of the fly
with the depth and speed the fish is located. Finally, once the fly is in the
zone, the action must be just right. Once you get the fly in the zone, make only
miniscule strips. Start with a tiny twitch once the fly is in front of the fish
and watch its reaction. You will know when the fish notices the fly because the
fish will twitch or even beeline right for the fly. If you did not get its
attention, be patient; wait for the fish to pass and then re-cast.
If the fish is does not appear to be moving and its tail is
just visible, there are several approaches you can take. Start by visualizing
where the carp’s mouth is in relation to its tail and put your fly there by
using the above method of casting beyond the fish and striping back. Once the
fly is in the zone, keep your line straight and tight and try a tiny one inch
strip. Next watch the fish’s tail; did it seem to get excited? Wag like a dog?
If s,o you probably are in the zone and either the fish has taken the fly or is
checking it out. Keep your line tight and try another tiny strip. If
you’re lucky, you’ll now have a carp on the end of your line.
The Strike
This is the moment of truth. Carp will not usually make a
vicious strike at a fly, but will instead suck the fly in gently. In order to
make a hookup, it is critical that the angler be alert, keep in constant contact
with the fly, and have keen vision and quick reflexes. Moments before the
strike, it is important to clue yourself in on the fish’s behavior. As we noted
earlier, the fish will often change direction and move towards the fly, or it
will simply “wag its tail”. These are indications the carp is intent on eating
your offering. Timing is crucial at this point. When the carp sucks the fly in,
there is but a split second for a strike. A very hard strike will often result
in a missed fish. It’s best to firmly sweep the rod to the side and keep tension
on the line. Once the carp feels the hook, it will almost always go on a
powerful run and set the hook firmly in its lips. At this point, you need not
worry whether the hook will come out. The carp has a soft yet tough mouth that
holds a hook very well. We recommend your pinching down the barbs on your hooks.
It will be much easier for you to remove the hook upon landing the fish, not to
mention those times when you hook yourself. The one second it takes to pinch
down a barb may someday be repaid in not having to go to the emergency room.
The Fight
Now for the fun part! After the hook is set, the carp will
almost always go on a powerful first run. It’s best to make sure you have your
drag set in advance. Let the fish do what it will on this first run. Trying to
stop it can often lead to broken leaders and straightened hooks. When the fish
relaxes a bit, start to regain your line. Now, every fish fight is different,
but a carp will usually come in a bit, then make a few more minor runs. However,
beware at this point. Just when it looks like the fish is ready to come in, it
will often go on one more blazing run, usually when they see the boat or angler.
Again, let the fish run - forcing things can result in broken leaders,
particularly if the fish flops down on a tight tippet. Then continue to work it
in. The fish will determine when it’s ready to be beached or netted. After
securing the fish, pull the fly free, and let it go. A note here; some folks are
afraid or squeamish to touch carp, but let it be known they are safe to touch,
and feel much like any other fish. They are slimy, but not unusually so. Carp
are very hardy, so feel free to snap one or two pictures without worry. When
you’re done, put them back in the water and repeat as often as possible.
We have heard stories and actually witnessed anglers who
feel it necessary to drop kick or heave a carp upon the bank to die after the
landing. These alleged gentlemen have a lack of ethics and respect for life.
While the carp isn’t a native species, it does get up every day to make a living
much like you do, and considering the fine sport they offer us, it’s in our best
interests to treat them cordially. Enough said for now; perhaps how an angler
treats his fish, regardless of species, is an indication of his moral worth.
Flies for Carp
This is pretty easy, actually. The proper weight of the fly
is probably the most important aspect. The fly must be able to be sink to the
depth of the fish and then stay at about that level as you strip it into the
carp’s feeding zone. Almost all carp fishing will be done in 6” to 3’ of water,
and occasionally a bit deeper, to maybe 8’. Carry flies with different weights
to meet these situations. Lead heads and cone heads, bead chains eyes,
wire-wrapped hook shanks and weightless flies are all needed. Particular
patterns include damsels, crawdads, wooly buggers, rabbit strip flies, Clousers
and saltwater flies. Sizes range from 4 to 12, with emphasis on 6 to 10.
These flies will cover 99% of your fishing. If the carp are hot on a hatch,
which is rare, then break out the trout flies. The best thing is to incorporate
materials with a lot movement, such as soft hackles, marabou or rabbit. The sky
is the limit here. Most diehards have a few flies they rely on consistently, but
will always try new things out. Imitate the natural foods surrounding you.
Experiment!
Weather for Carp
Ideal conditions for carp fishing are clear, fairly calm,
and warm. A full, overhead sun is ideal for sight fishing. Early morning and
late-day hours are more difficult due to the angle of the sun on the water. We
recommend late morning and early afternoons in the spring before the wind picks
up, mid-morning to mid/late afternoons for summer, and late morning to
mid-afternoon for autumn. Chasing carp is considerably more difficult in rainy
and cloudy weather. The famous high pressure weather systems of the American
West provide excellent carp fishing weather.
Gear for Carp
You won’t need any specific tools to chase carp. We would
recommend a 6 weight rod and a reel with a good drag. Make sure you have plenty
of backing on said reel. A net is handy from a boat, but not necessary if
working from shore, and if you bring one, bring a big one. Beaching a carp isn’t
hard. Rounding out the ensemble is the best pair of polarized glasses you can
afford and a hat with a wide brim. Leaders of 7 to 9 feet tapered to 3x are
perfect. If you want to delve further into the mysteries of the carp, buy a copy
of “Carp on the Fly” by Reynolds, Befus, and Berryman. This book
remains the definitive guide to fly fishing for carp; anyone serious about carp
should have a copy in their home library.
Additional web resources
http://forums.rockymtnfly.com/index.php?showtopic=1243
http://outdoorsbest.zeroforum.com/zeroforum?id=72
http://www.wyomingflyfishing.com/carpunlimited.aspx
http://www.midcurrent.com/articles/techniques/cutchin_fightingfish.aspx
So Get Out There
Carp are big, hard fighting fish found in a pond or river near you. They are
caught on a variety of inexpensive, simple patterns and using gear you more than
likely already own. They provide an intense angling foray in a casual setting.
In these days of high gas prices, crowded, diseased trout streams and tight time
schedules, the carp is a non-politicized, free and easy day (or hour) on the
water. We hope you take the opportunity to give chase to this fascinating fish.
We are confident it will make you a better fisherman, and probably a better
person. Carp On!
Andrew Spinato is a firefighter who in his spare time is an avid carp angler and guide. For more information about hiring him and his boat, contact is
carponthefly@msn.com
Mark Kyner is a bum who pesters Andrew for boat rides and flies to catch carp.
They both reside in Longmont, CO.